News from the Trails

Follow along as Harriet embarks on her 900-mile journey to John O'Groats, trekking through some of the UK’s most stunning landscapes.

We’ll be sharing highlights from Harriet's walk, featuring the people and businesses who lend a helping hand along the way.

Community is at the heart of Harriet’s challenge, and you’re invited to participate. If you’d like to join Harriet for a stretch of the walk, contact susie@dementiaadventure.co.uk.

Join The D Tour and help make a difference for those living with dementia.

Thank you to macs adventure, our headline podcast sponsor. 
Listen to The D Tour podcast here 

Harriet starting her journey at Land's End

And I'm off! Beautiful Cornwall is calling

The adventure begins

What a day! It’s beautiful weather and I’ve finally set off for my 900 mile adventure raising money for Dementia Adventure.

I spoke to many people, including many locals, who told me about the harsh tin and arsenic mining industrial past of this now beautiful stretch of the Cornish Coast. As I wandered past the former mine shafts and pumping stations I could almost hear the crash of metal and the shouts of toiling men that must have filled these valleys.

On a happier note I had a lovely swim at Cape Cornwall – me in a bikini everyone else in wet suits!

I spent the night at a beautiful campsite just by Pendeen Campsite and watched the sunset.

Cornish pasties, ice cream, happy holiday makers…

This area of Cornwall was once a vast mining complex, one of the richest in the world and a hub of technological innovation.

But for the workforce who had to crawl through the seams of tin, often extending under the sea and for the men and boys who worked in the arsenic works, a bi product of tin, life was harsh and short.

As I walked through the landscape, I felt the heaviness of this industrial past.

⛺️ The Old Coastguard Campsite
⛏️ Gweever Mining Museum
🥪 Little Wooden Cafe, Cape Cornwall

Smells of the sea

Catching waves!

Walking from Land’s End to John O’Groats may sound crazy. But it’s a simple way to live.

There’s no agenda.

The path doesn’t judge you. And you can live in the moment.

Want to surf but can’t afford Australia? Come to this stretch of the UK coastline. Miles of beautiful sandy beaches and Atlantic waves are perfect for surfing.

A salt tang in the air and the sounds of people playing in the water made this a walk that reminded me of precious times spent at the beach with friends and family.

I finished the day off by soaking myself in the beautifully scented bath products produced by Land&Water.

The mint in the shampoo reminded me of my garden at home and my mum chopping mint to make mint sauce. I love how our sense of smell evokes memory.

Listen to episode two of the podcast; Sea Shells and Smells.

Thank you

Podcast episode two – Sea Shells and Smells

A big thank you to land&water the podcast’s sponsor for episode two, and our headline sponsor, Macs Adventure.

Born on the shoreline, land&water is a British natural bath and body brand which evokes that warm glow after time in the elements.

The land&water products were sparked by years of enjoying a lifestyle of ‘active relaxation’ and witnessing the warm glow of guests coming inside after days well spent on the beach and in nature, Pix set about capturing its essence—to literally, bottle it.

Battling high winds

The daily cake

This is a spectacular part of this Cornish coastline on the South West Coast Path.

Sure, there were more sandy bays filled with surfers 🏄‍♀️

But it was the rock formations that made my day.

The granite blocks that form most of the coastline are replaced here by sedimentary rocks, a mix of sandstone, siltstone, and mudstone, to create these fabulous geometric shapes.

I’m only sorry I couldn’t stay longer to see how the tides affected the view of the rocks.

My fear of heights was tested today as I battled through high winds above these wonderfully prehistoric cliffs.

The serene Bay of Padstow was a welcome breath of tranquillity before I battled again around Pentire Point.

I’m so glad I have my heavy-duty coat and waterproof trousers. They add nearly 1kg to my pack, but they’re worth it on a day like this.

I eat cake virtually every day. Today, it was coffee and walnut, which I manifested on Stepper Point. It appeared when I hopped off the ferry at Rock. I walked into the first cafe I saw, and there it was, waiting patiently for me.

Listen to episode two of the podcast; Sea Shells and Smells.

We're all fellow spirits

Connection on the trail…

Faced with a misty whiteout, I turned inland, walked down lovely country lanes, and listened to Poldark on audible.

I rejoined the coast path at Milford to find this spectacular beach. Quite a change from the sandy surfer beaches I’ve become used to.

This beach spoke of millions of years of geological turmoil. Huge cliff faces with geometric rock strata and fallen slabs of rock that looked like the petrified slices of a giant loaf of bread.

Pushing on to Bude, I was beginning to reach my ‘Seriously, where is the end?’ state of mind when I saw a figure sitting on a bench and waving at me up ahead.
I did the classic look-behind-she-must-be-waving-at-someone-else move. And then the mystery figure called my name.

Flummoxed, I walked closer and saw it was Anne, a lovely cyclist I camped next to on my first night in Cornwall.We chatted happily on a bench, looking out to sea, for an hour or so. When I finally got up to walk to Bude, it was with a spring in my step.

It’s very interesting to note what gives me energy on the trail. Cornish pasties and milkshakes, obviously. But also the sudden brilliance of a hillside purple with heather, the dance of two butterflies in front of my feet, and, of course, the wonderful buzz you get from connecting with a fellow spirit.

And we’re all fellow spirits ❤️

Listen to episode two of the podcast; Sea Shells and Smells.

Plan your own walking adventure

As Harriet walks her route, we’ll share itineraries from our headline sponsor, Macs Adventure to highlight how you can participate in your own walking adventure.

Macs Adventure offer self-guided, holidays for independent, active people who don’t want to be part of the crowd or be restricted by set dates and schedules. 

The itineraries enable you to go with the people you choose at your own pace without worrying about planning routes or arranging trip logistics. 

Where will you explore first?

macs adventure logo

Follow Harriet's trail - South West Coast Path

Padstow to St Ives

  • Walk the Padstow to St Ives section of the South West Coast Path.
  • Freshly caught fish and chips at Rick Stein’s in Padstow.
  • Walking for miles along white and pristine sandy beaches.
  • The wild Atlantic surf crashes into the cliffs below you.
  • Selection of local Cornish galleries and traditional culinary delights.
 
Find out more here

Goodbye steps!

Hello Devon.

Now that I’m in Devon, things have really changed.
Obviously, it was not my breakfast, which was my by-now standard meal of scrambled eggs, sausages, brown toast, and coffee.

Now there are no more cliffs and no more stairs! Instead, cool green woodland through which I only got fleeting glimpses of a Caribbean-blue sea.

Finally, around the area of Babbacombe Cliff, an empty and stony beach appeared. I went down to sit on a rock and had a little cry. This was an area where I had several family holidays with my Mum, my children, my sister, and her family—happy memories of the 8 of us beetling around in a 3-car convoy and playing on beaches. A small haul of shells and stones was always amassed by my Mum, who loved beach combing and had an eagle eye for tiny treasures.

When I reached Greencliffe, I headed east away from the coast to Bideford, and that was it: my last coastal walk until I reached Inverness and walked up the Eastern Coast of Scotland to John O’Groats.

I was sad to say goodbye to the sea which has been such a constant and endlessly fascinating companion for 12 days.

But I am not sad to say goodbye to the goddam steps!!

To learn more about my journey and why I am raising money, visit The D Tour main page here and listen to episode three of the podcast; We’re going to be friends

Misty moors

Lucy joins the trail

I had been worried about this walk that took me into the heart of Exmoor. Would there be treacherous bogs and unnavigable expanses of misty moor?

I needn’t have worried. Today was one of my best days yet.

I started off walking with my trusty companion Lucy, who has got the walking and talking bug!

We had a happy time exploring lush woodland with more shades of green than there are names for.

I had to leave her in Bratton Fleming after a typical West Country hiking meal of pasties and fizzy drinks.

While Lucy returned to everyday home life, I walked on down gorgeous country lanes under a perfect English Summer sky.

Finally, I entered Exmoor and was blown away as a prairie-like landscape unrolled in front of me like the best carpet ever.

No people, just dried grasses blowing in the summer breeze and a few sheep.

There’s a reason why Devon rhymes with heaven.

To learn more about my journey and why I am raising money, visit The D Tour main page here and listen to episode three of the podcast; We’re going to be friends

The D Tour took a detour

Entering the bog.

Today, the moors made me suffer!

***Support Harriet on her mission to raise £25,000 for the Dementia Adventure Support Fund***

I set off in a thick mist, and the path on the map quickly petered out into a squelchy expanse of bog hidden beneath head-high clumps of purple moor grass.

I quickly realised this was ideal territory for falling flat on my face in the mud.

Luckily, cows had left tracks. So, I abandoned the map and focused on following in their footsteps to the edge of the field, where I negotiated barbed wire and brambles to reach the calm of a needle-carpet fir plantation.

My next plan was to reach a road and civilisation.

Through a careful combination of OS map and cow tracks, I stumbled onto a road feeling like a survivor of a particularly challenging reality TV show.

I’m on Exmoor; get me out of here! 🙂

Thankfully, the rest of the day was more straightforward: pretty heather-covered hills, cake, coffee, and a beautiful rainbow to bolster my spirits for the final miles.

I was so happy to reach Roadwater. But to be fair, I’m happy to reach my destination every day!!

The kindness of strangers

The donations flow in.

One of the highlights of my 900-mile D Tour is meeting so many lovely folks along the way.

Their generosity has been astounding.

Viv, whom I met at her farm outside Hay On Wye, gave me this homemade spiral today.
Viv also donated £10 to my Dementia Adventure fundraising.

Yesterday, I met a lovely lady named Sheila on the walk to Pandy. She donated £60 to Dementia Adventure and introduced me to her nephew’s pub, where I was given a free drink and £20 towards the fundraising.

I met Sally when I walked past her garden on my way to Bridgewater. We had a lovely chat, and she, too, donated £10 to Dementia Adventure.

Sally also introduced me to Pete and Cathy at the local pub. Pete gave me a free drink and then closed his pub to give me a lift to my hotel.

To all of these people and to everyone else who has so kindly donated to Dementia Adventure through their website, THANK YOU. 🙏

You make every mile worthwhile.

Find out more about The D Tour and how you can donate here.
.

Thank you

Podcast episode three – Yep, we’re going to be friends

A big thank you to Collacott Farm for supporting episode two of the podcast, and of course to macs adventure, our headline sponsor.

In this episode we explore the topic of connection through friendships, music and animal therapy.

Connect with your family and friends with a stay in Collacott Farm’s holiday cottages in a beautiful rural setting in Devon or enrol in Horse Connection – a new course which explorers horse behaviour, ethology and communication.

Farmland and flowers

Sunny trails

What a fabulous day walking through the Somerset levels. I loved the intensely farming nature of this landscape and the grids of drainage ditches that crisscross the land.

The flat, easy paths gave my legs a rest, and I had time to notice the beautiful wildflowers.

Quiet, restful and full of sun ☀️

To learn more about my journey and why I am raising money, visit The D Tour main page here and listen to episode three of the podcast; Yep, we’re going to be friends.

Cake and company

My Birthday!

Today, I celebrated my 61st birthday 🎁 by walking with these two lovelies: speech therapist Sue Hinds and psychologist Dr Raja.

Together we walked along Offa’s Dyke with spectacular views of the majestic river Wye.

My sandwich had another great view of Devil’s Pulpit, and we found a fairy-tale yew tree winding itself around a rock formation.

I even got a gift: a copy of Dr Raja’s book A Way With the Fairies. The book follows the story of an eight-year-old boy’s experience as his mathematical genius father fights dementia.

As I’m always interested in the relationship between children and older people, I can’t wait to begin this book on my next day off.

Sue and Raja walked briskly, much faster than my usual meanderings, and we reached Monmouth in double quick time.

Listen to our conversation here 

Gospel path

Today was a great day

My 3rd day on Offas Dyke started with a rainbow 🌈 The winds were very high, so I ditched going over the Black Mountains and figured out a low-level route.

The weather brightened, and accompanied by a friend, we explored beautiful wooded paths that sheltered us from the winds.

By afternoon, the sun shone brightly, and I looked wistfully up at the Black Mountains, wishing we were there.

I needn’t have worried.

The walk over the Gospel path resulted in one of the most awe-inspiring views I have ever seen.

It was a fantastic day of walking with one very happy hiker.

Episode 4 of the podcast is now live. Listen to ‘Clouds In My Coffee‘ 

 

Clouds in my coffee - thank you

Podcast episode 4 – Clouds in my coffee

A big thank you to Jimmy’s Original Iced Coffee for sponsoring episode 4 of the podcast.

This episode reflects on “Food, Glorious Food” and its power to nourish both body and soul. We discuss and reflect on the emotional impact of shared meals and how to navigate meals with someone living with Dementia.

Jimmy’s iced coffee is crafted with single-origin Rainforest Alliance-certified coffee, semi-skimmed milk, and just the right amount of sugar, to deliver a refreshingly smooth taste. 

Jimmy's logo

Sparking joy with Siân

 

Singalong

Deliver a song and dance session at a care home, of course!

Thanks so much to actress Sian Reeves, who sang songs from her beautiful album Remember This, a collection of singalong classics aimed at the older population and care homes. The excellent staff and residents at Wheatlands Care Home made us feel so welcome, and we had so much fun singing together ❤️

Tune in to episode 5 of the podcast – Postcards from the edge of Wales. 

Meeting a legend

Today I took a detour from The D Tour

What an immense pleasure and honour it was to meet Tony Christie. At 81 years old and with a dementia diagnosis, he still managed to fit in two hours of interviews with me, the BBC, ITV, and Dementia Adventure—all before he headed to the studio to record four songs for his upcoming album.

Tony is an ambassador for Music For Dementia. He embodies the power of music to stimulate the brain and create vitality and connection.

I then had the honour of being invited to Tony’s home, where his lovely wife Sue treated me like family, serving me ham sandwiches and cups of tea in the kitchen.

I am so happy and warm after being in the orbit of this beautiful couple. Together, they radiate love and music and make the world a better place 💕

Support Harriet - donate here

Where does my money go?

The money raised goes to the Dementia Adventure Support Fund. This fund provides life-enhancing supported breaks for people living with dementia and their carers. These breaks offer respite, reconnection, and hope, allowing families to enjoy nature and outdoor adventures together. They are more than just holidays—they are a chance for families to find peace, joy, and purpose during challenging times.

Donate here

Don't stop me now - thank you

Tune into Episode 6 – Don’t stop me now

A big thank you to our episode sponsor, Music for Dementia, whose mission is to ensure everyone living with dementia has access to music that evokes cherished memories and creates meaningful moments.

 

 

This week’s D Tour episode takes us from Derwent Valley to Dovedale, exploring the profound connection between music, walking, and nature.

 

In this special episode, Harriet meets legendary musician Tony Christie, who continues to share his gift of song despite his dementia diagnosis, and we hear from Sarah Metcalfe from the Utley Foundation, who highlights music’s life-changing impact on those with dementia.

New landscapes

Purple heather and blue skys

Today, as I moved into Staffordshire and walked along the canals that crisscross this region, I felt like I was moving into a new landscape and history. The canals reminded me of the industrial heritage and innovation that characterised the 19th-century Midlands.

Also, it was interesting to note that I walked faster than a canal boat!

The fields glowed with their golden stubble in the sunlight, and I passed through some pretty wooded lanes.

 

But this walk’s highlight was crossing the heathland of Cannock Chase, resplendent with purple heather glowing against a blue sky.

 

Company on the trail

I saved my Aunt’s life!

Today, my 79-year-old aunt Michaela swapped her slippers for hiking boots and joined me on the trail. 

She climbed over countless rotten styles and metal gates until we found some delicious apples to scrump.

After meeting many sheep and traversing more tricky terrain and styles, we finally lurched into the Dog and Partridge at Swinscoe for a hearty dinner, washed down with vino.

This was when we noticed Michaela had torn her jeans while crossing a field full of curious cows. Apparently, it was my fault for screaming at Michaela to “Get through this gate now; the cows are coming.”

Michaela was so shocked at my loss of calm that she tripped over a root and fell onto her knees in front of said cows.

My loud but firm shouts kept the cows at bay while Michaela got through the gate to safety.
Michaela thinks I was overreacting…some thanks I get for saving her life 😂

The Peak District

Simple steps

Today, I left Staffordshire and entered the Derbyshire Peak District.

 

As soon as I entered Dovedale, the poorly maintained paths of Staffordshire were replaced by lovely waymarking and excellent paths, which I appreciate more with every mile I hike.

 

I fell in love with Derbyshire from the start. It has curious hills like Thorpe Cloud, the burbling Dove River, and weird and wonderful rock outcrops. I loved walking along the trails laid on disused railways, which reminded me of the area’s industrial heritage.

 

The hills are so green and rolling and covered with wildflowers.

 

A beautiful, simple day of walking through a gorgeous landscape.

 

Delicious DerbyShire

Lord of the Manor!

Today’s walk took me deeper into delicious Derbyshire, which is fast becoming a favourite County.

A grey morning gave early Autumn vibes as I set off down a misty country lane and walked over a lovely River Lathkill by a gorgeous arched stone bridge.

It was then a few hours of lovely parkland walking through the grounds of Haddon Hall and then Chatsworth House. If it weren’t for my muddy hiking boots, I could swear I was in a period costume drama as I surveyed the rolling hills, deer, and stately homes.

Then, onto the utterly lovely Hope Valley and a long stretch walking by the black waters of the River Derwent.

As the day went on, I noticed the increasing presence of stone as a building material for houses and paths. There’s a definite feeling of moving away from the cosy South and entering a wilder environment.

 

On this walk, I encountered the cutest sheep of the D Tour so far! 

A day off

My Dearest Friend

After a superb walk from Hathersage, I met up with one of my dearest friends.

My day off was spent having a joyous singalong with Knowle House Care Home residents and meeting the inspirational Carl Case, who created Culturally Appropriate Resources for people living with dementia in the African and Caribbean communities.

I completed my day off with a delicious meal with Lizzie and my daughter Lily who is joining me for the next week of walking.

Tune into episode 7 – It’s just not cricket

Moscar moors

Lunch with a view

Today was a glorious day of walking deep into the Peak District west of Sheffield.

Massive, smooth rocks appeared strewn amongst the trees and on the hillsides, as I entered Charlotte Brontë country. North Lees Hall (2nd pic) became the principal inspiration for Thornfield Hall in the novel ‘Jane Eyre’, described as: “three storeys high; a gentleman’s manor house; battlements round the top gave it a picturesque look”. They still do!

Ascending a lovely stone path, I reached the Stanage Edge, a gritstone escarpment that forms the border between Derbyshire and South Yorkshire.

I was grinning happily as I looked at the Barbara Hepworth-esque stone formations and tremendous view over Bamford and Moscar Moors.

The morning was complete with a cheese bagel munched atop one of the lovely flat boulders I had admired all morning.

The walk continued through the atmospheric woods at Bradford Dale and on to the unbelievably pretty village of High Bradfield. Here stands the wonderful Medieval church of St Nicholas, with a stunning cemetery and views over the surrounding countryside.

I wish I could have spent more time exploring the gravestones, many of which looked ancient.

 

But I still had a way to go and meandered under sunny skies, onto Langsett.

Face to face with bulls!

Hello Hebdon Bridge

These little cuties sent us off course – look at those horns – and had us struggling over wet, boggy fields, maintaining a barely disguised panic.

Once a dry stone wall safely separated us, we admired our shaggy foes and their little black calf.

Like yesterday, this was a walk of reservoirs- Cupwith, Deanhead and Booth Wood where our path lay below the reservoir wall.

We passed some pretty woods before heading up and down the beautiful Rishworth Moor and Bell House Moor. The huge Upper Calder Valley stretched before us, with the brown-grey gritstone of Hebden Bridge nestled along the River Calder.

Drizzle and misty moors

The Cotton Mills

After a 9.30 a.m. emergency stop at Rohan so Lily could buy new boots, we left Hebden Bridge by the beautiful woods that follow Hebden Water. The path runs along a steep bank, so it felt as though we were in the canopy of the trees on the lower slopes.

The route then goes over Walshaw Dean Reservoir and on to Haworth Moor and the ruins of Withins Heights, which is said to be the model for Wuthering Heights.

The weather was suitably drizzly and misty as we crossed the stunningly atmospheric Ikornshaw Moor, with its red grasses, grouse, and huge stone slabs that provided safe passage through the boggy ground.

Off the moor, we descended through farmland to the small gritstone village of Cowling. Now peaceful, this village, like many others in the area, was filled with noise from the cotton mills in the 18th and 19th centuries. It is difficult to imagine now, though the huge factory buildings still remain in many local towns and villages.

Thank you Another Place - The Lake

Rest and Relaxation

I love Ullswater. It’s perhaps my favourite of the lakes, and I’ve had many epic walks here.

This visit is different, though! I’ve just enjoyed a hot stone massage and a stroll along the lakeside, and tomorrow I am fulfilling a bucket list adventure – paddle boarding on the lake.

I also interviewed Head Gardener James Cox.

We talked about the mental and physical benefits of gardening and how methods such as the no-dig technique can increase sustainability and make gardening easier as we age.

It was fascinating to understand how James sees the world as a vast and miraculous creation and how we can play our part in maintaining it through gardening.

Do I want to climb those hills? Hell yes! But I’ll have to leave it for another visit. Today I’m relaxing.

Tune into episode 8 – The bucket list

Company on the trail

Hawes to Keld

An incredible day of dramatic skies, sweeping vistas, high winds, and boggy marshland had me marvelling at the beauty of Swaledale as I walked through the Yorkshire Dales along the Pennine Way.

As I climbed up to Shunner Fell, the wind was so blustery that I feared I would be blown off the stone slabs of the Pennine Way and into one of the innumerable pools of brown, peaty water that lined the path.

I was very glad to meet Katherine on the path. We walked together, and her surefooted confidence brushed away my uncertainties.

Descending from Shunner Fell to the green pastures around Thwaite, we began to see little stone hay houses dotting the landscape and the curly-horned Swaledale Sheep, the native and necessarily hardy sheep of the Yorkshire Dales.

Then, past a pretty waterfall, I went on to Keld, where Katherine and I parted ways. She went to a campsite further along the Pennine Way, and I went to the extremely comfortable Frith Lodge BnB, where I was welcomed by this cute little chap. 

You've got a friend...

Singing!

I want to give you a feeling of walking on the Pennine Way in the North Yorkshire Dales on a gloomy day.

All day, all I could see was a mist before my eyes and a bog beneath my feet.

How did I entertain myself?

Firstly, I sang You’ve Got A Friend at the top of my voice. It felt like I was in a completely isolated sound booth. I wonder if anyone could hear me. But it felt really good!! It’s so good that I sang it several times, and I could imagine holding the album cover in my hands like I did when I was a kid at home. Back then, I always wondered what it would be like to be as pretty and cool and talented as Carol King—still wondering. That singing completely transported me to being 9 years old again in our front room. Happy days.

After the nostalgia became too much, I switched to Audible to listen to Wuthering Heights, which I had started to ‘read’ when I first entered Brontë Country in the Peak District. Emily Bronte’s imagination is positively twisted…I mean, when Heathcliffe digs up Cathy’s grave!!! But I loved every minute, and it was so satisfying to have a happy ending at the end of all the tumult!

So, all in all, it was a very satisfying misty day sploshing on the moors!

 

Plan your own walking adventure

As Harriet walks her route, we’ll share itineraries from our headline sponsor, Macs Adventure to highlight how you can participate in your own walking adventure.

Macs Adventure offer self-guided, holidays for independent, active people who don’t want to be part of the crowd or be restricted by set dates and schedules. 

The itineraries enable you to go with the people you choose at your own pace without worrying about planning routes or arranging trip logistics. 

Where will you explore first?

macs adventure logo
Macs Adventure Pennine Way Walk

Follow Harriet's trail - The Pennines

The Pennine Way

  • Walk the Pennine Way, designated as the UK’s very first National Trail
  • Three National Parks – Peak District, Yorkshire Dales & Northumberland
  • Traverse the wild and windswept moors of Brontë country
  • Take in wonderful views of Pen-y-Ghent in Three Peaks Country
  • Discover UNESCO World Heritage Site, Hadrian’s Wall
  • The spectacular sight of Malham Cove, a dramatic amphitheatre-shaped cliff formation
 
Find out more here

A magical day

Bowes to Middleton in Teesdale

Sometimes, you have a walk where everything comes together to provide a glorious day of magic, and this was one of those.

I left the misty, moody Yorkshire Dales behind me and stepped into the sunniest day that County Durham had seen for weeks.

Walking out of Bowes along an empty, sun-filled lane felt like freedom.

I soon met a lovely local couple who had been rambling together for 50 years and donated £1 to my Dementia Adventure fundraising.

I left them to follow their path while I went on to pass the pretty farmhouse of Levy Pool and up over the lovely, prairie-like expanse of Deep Dale and Cotherstone Moor.

The whole area was a wash of golds, greens, and browns under the blue sky. Then, up ahead rose the crags of Goldsborough Carr, a haunting gritstone feature that dominates the landscape and is apparently a favourite for climbers.

Fortunately, it is possible to reach the top by simply ambling up the paths made by sheep. If you do this, you will find the perfect picnic spot at the top, which offers superior people-watching possibilities.

I went through the tiniest Hobbit gate known to mankind and, after admiring the peaty brown waters of a little beck, passed by Grassholme Reservoir.

You can walk a full day on the Pennine Way without passing a village. So it’s hugely appreciated when local farmers create little honesty-box stores where you can get a drink and a biscuit.🍪 🙏

I finally crested a hill to see the little town of Middleton in Teesdale nestling in the green Teesdale valley. It is a phenomenally gorgeous little town, made even better by the fact that it borders quite the prettiest river I have seen in my travels, the River Tees. 

Climbing waterfalls

Langdon Beck to Dufton

Another action-packed hike along the Pennine Way!

The day started misty and magically, in true Pennine style. The early morning sun diffused through the low cloud, and a herd of belted Galloway cattle emerged ghostly through the white haze.

My mood was happy as I spotted a giant spider’s web dripping with dew jewels and tuned in to the music of the River Tees.

The rough grass path morphed into a boulder-strewn assault course, but this was just a warm-up for the cascade of Cauldron Snout.

I had heard there was a scramble on this walk, but I was a bit shocked to see that I would have to climb up the rocky side of the waterfall.

I could have found another way. But hating to quit, up I went without incident except for slightly quivering legs and a lot of whooping and hollering at the top.

The rest of the walk was a more sedate affair (well, apart from army artillery fire from a neighbouring valley) up to the massive U-shaped High Cup Nick valley.

Then I went to Dufton, where I stayed in a ‘hobbit hut’ and met Fons, a Dutch hiker who is also walking Lands End to John O’Groats. I’ll tell you more about Fons tomorrow!

 

Meet Fons - another 900 mile adventurer!

Dufton to Alston

Setting off on a pristine morning, I stopped for a chat with these gorgeous ponies before starting the ascent up through High Scald Feld to Knock Fell.

As I climbed, I remembered sitting at my desk at home in February, planning this route on my OS app. I had imagined thick mists, dangerous bogland, and the possibility of getting hopelessly lost. The reality couldn’t have been more different.

First, I had the company of Fons, the Dutch hiker I had met at the campsite the previous evening and walking Lands End to John O’ Groats.

With the spectacular weather, it felt like we were on top of the world as we reached Cross Fell, the highest point on the Pennine Way at 893 metres.

We ate our sandwiches at the dry stone shelter that marks the summit, which offers once-in-a-lifetime views across the Eden Valley to the mountains of the Lake District to the west and across the Solway Firth to the Southern Uplands of Scotland to the North.

Now it was time for the long walk down! With the main attraction behind us, it felt like an anticlimax, although it was great to have a little rest at Greg’s Hut, a little bothy that volunteers have lovingly restored.

The final miles to Alston were so peaceful, walking along the River Tyne with every colour glowing richly in a perfect golden hour.

My childhood idols

Haltwhistle Burn

A pretty walk along Haltwhistle Burn was a lovely change from the moorland hills of the previous days.

Yes, I’ve finally reached Hadrian’s Wall, and on a grey, blustery day, my imagination quickly got me into the role of a leather-clad centurion.

Have I ever mentioned that all my role models as a child were men? When I was growing up, men seemed to have all the fun—footballers, cowboys, tractor drivers.

So it felt quite natural to be up there by the wall, imagining my cloak blowing in the wind and a sword in my hand.

Happy days.

 

Hadrian’s Wall 

A Change Of Scenery

The day started along Hadrian’s Wall again, and once more, the atmosphere of the place really struck me. You can almost hear the Roman soldiers chatting and gambling as you walk along the wall.

The three features I have seen virtually every day of my walk since Cornwall were also here: sheep, dancing grasses and red-berried Rowan trees.

Tea stops are few and far between on the Pennine Way, so I stopped for a hot drink and a choccie biscuit.

Then I left Hadrian’s Wall behind us, striking out North and following the little acorn signs that denote a national trail.

Support Harriet - donate here

Where does my money go?

The money raised goes to the Dementia Adventure Support Fund. This fund provides life-enhancing supported breaks for people living with dementia and their carers. These breaks offer respite, reconnection, and hope, allowing families to enjoy nature and outdoor adventures together. They are more than just holidays—they are a chance for families to find peace, joy, and purpose during challenging times.

Donate here

Thank you Freddie's Flowers

Episode 9 – Seeds of change

Thank you to Freddie’s Flowers for sponsoring this episode where we focus on the seasons. Freddie’s deliver fresh seasonal, long-lasting blooms directly to your door.  We love their flower subscriptions – treat yourself or a friend.

Harriet journeys from Alston to Melrose, crossing Cumbria, Northumberland, and into Scotland, embracing the changing seasons with harvested fields and falling leaves. 

Along the way, she speaks with James Cox of Another Place about no-dig gardening, Freddie Garland of Freddie’s Flowers on staying connected to nature, and Sue Hinds from Dementia Adventure on how seasonal shifts impact mood and routines for people with dementia and their carers.

Goodbye Pennine Way... hello Scotland

Tramping Bogland

Today is my last day on the Pennine Way, and yes, it’s a misty start. But the burnt orange colour of the grasses more than makes up for the poor visibility.

On the Pennine Way, you spend a lot of time looking at your feet to avoid boggy patches. So, it was a special treat to see a tiny little green frog hop across my path.

The mosses and lichen that thrive in this damp, clean environment provide a tiny explosion of colour and form beneath my boots.

After more tramping over cloudy, rough grassland I turned west off the Pennine Way.

In a few moments, I was in Scotland, and suddenly, the landscape transformed into a velvety green and brown patchwork of hills and distant mountains.

I loved the moody Pennine Way, but I’m really happy to be exploring new terrain.

 

Plan your own walking adventure

As Harriet walks her route, we’ll share itineraries from our headline sponsor, Macs Adventure to highlight how you can participate in your own walking adventure.

Macs Adventure offer self-guided, holidays for independent, active people who don’t want to be part of the crowd or be restricted by set dates and schedules. 

The itineraries enable you to go with the people you choose at your own pace without worrying about planning routes or arranging trip logistics. 

Where will you explore first?

macs adventure logo

Follow Harriet's trail - St Cuthbert's Way

Discover the most iconic places along the St Cuthbert’s Way

  • Step back in history discovering the highlights of the St Cuthbert’s Way
  • Cross the tidal causeway to Holy Island of Lindisfarne
  • Follow a historic pilgrimage trail visiting interesting sites
  • Enjoy varied scenery and breathe in the fresh sea breeze
  • Meet friendly and welcoming Northumbrian hosts
 
Find out more about the different walking options here

Preparing for The Highlands

St Cuthbert’s Way

Today, I’m walking along St Cuthbert’s Way.

Autumn has begun to hit, and I enjoyed looking at the beech leaves, bright yellow against the black, peaty soil.

A lovely walk along the mirror-like Teviot River revealed intricate reflections, which made me wonder which version of reality was real.

I passed through a few tree tunnels on this trip, and this silver beech avenue is one of my favourites. Everything about the silver birch is so delicate, including the almost tinkling sound made by the leaves shimmering in the breeze.

Cresting Eildon Hill, I had a magnificent view of the Tweed Valley, and the town on Melrose stretched before me.

On the last stretch to Galashiels along the Tweed, I plugged myself into my audiobook, The Bookseller of Inverness by S.G. MacKean…preparing myself for the Highlands!!

 

Tune into episode10 – Lean on me

How to remain happy

The Long Road

I thought hiking along the Cross Border Drovers Road had a romantic ring to it – stepping into the shoes of centuries of cattle farming.

I got bored with the rougher grassland and bleak hills. And following my ‘I-was-chased-by-a-bull’ incident in Northumbria, I wasn’t exactly thrilled to see more damn cows in my path!!!

Not easily discouraged, I marched on, getting thoroughly involved in my ‘Bookseller of Inverness’ audible book, to keep me entertained.

Once over the Pentland Hills, I started to enter the outskirts of Edinburgh. I passed through the pretty Calder Woods, where I encountered dog walkers, blackberry pickers and cyclists.

But where there are lots of people, there are two problems that confront the hiker:

1. How to remain happy and at peace with the world when furniture and general rubbish fly benight the roads and pavements tipped with abandon.

2. Where to have a wee? The great thing about a lonely path is that I’m comfortable now with the smallest tuft of grass to ‘hide’ behind. As I encounter humanity, I realise that such uncivilised behaviour is frowned upon.

A quick scan of my OS map and Google Maps confirmed that there was no cafe or pub on my path. No matter: gritting my teeth and my pelvic floor I stride on.

The final miles of my approach to the blessed Nirvana of Premier Inn, Livingston, traversed through the largest and most uninspiring area of social housing I have seen for a long time.

Who plans this kind of development? There were no trees, no community buildings that I could see, and every house looked exactly like its neighbour.

There should be a rule that town planners/architects must live in their creations for a year to fully experience the environmental impact on well-being and happiness.

I swear this depressing hour of walking exacerbated my sciatica, which was in full excruciating flare-up mode by the time I limped into Premier Inn.

Not to worry. The next day is a rest day, and my only challenge is to decide whether to wash my trousers or eat grapes. Happy days 😉

 

Canals

Friends Along The Route

One word: canals…33 km of them!

I was excited to see on the map that the Union Canal is transported 86ft above the River Avon along the 810 ft long Avon Aqueduct. Even more exciting, I was going to walk up on the aqueduct. Was this fun? Yes, very. Incredible Victorian engineering from Hugh Baird and Thomas Telford and fabulous views down to the River Avon.

The rest of the walk was gorgeous, with beautiful reflections in the mirror-like water of the canal and sunlit trees making a green tunnel to walk through.

Just as I reached my destination, I passed this Rosebay Willowherb glowing in the evening sun.

However, it was 33 km along a canal at the end of the day, and I was glad to arrive at Kilsyth where I met up with my fellow LEJOGer Fons for a well/earned hiker, catch-up dinner.

My Macs Adventure

Loch Lomand

I’ve experienced day after day of beautiful, atmospheric, magical and ethereal landscapes as I have walked from Lands End to John O’Groats.

 

But sitting on the banks of Loch Lomond today, as I hike the West Highland Way, has definitely been one of my most peaceful moments.

I’m so grateful to be able to explore the UK on foot to raise money for Dementia Adventure.

 

Right now, I have the extra pleasure of being sponsored by Macs Adventure Their helpful app with map and route description plus all the stress taken out of organising accommodation is a real treat. Tomorrow, I will get to try their baggage transfer.

 

It may feel strange not to be hiking with 9kg on my back, but I could get used to it!!!

Thank you to our headline sponsor - Macs Adventure

Episode 11 – Doing it my way

Harriet reflects on the meaning of independence while travelling the West Highland Way, supported by Macs Adventure, who manages logistics to allow full immersion in the journey.

We hear from Graham Horner on how self-guided trips empower personal exploration, Graham Galloway on Meeting Centres Scotland’s role in fostering autonomy for people with dementia, and insights from Dr. Raja Badrakalimuthu and Fernando Perez on the balance between independence and community.

Plan your own walking adventure

As Harriet walks her route, we’ll share itineraries from our headline sponsor, Macs Adventure to highlight how you can participate in your own walking adventure.

Macs Adventure offer self-guided, holidays for independent, active people who don’t want to be part of the crowd or be restricted by set dates and schedules. 

The itineraries enable you to go with the people you choose at your own pace without worrying about planning routes or arranging trip logistics. 

Where will you explore first?

macs adventure logo
The West Highland Way with Macs Adventure

Follow Harriet's trail - The West Highland Way

One of Macs Adventure’s most popular routes. 

  • Complete Scotland’s most famous long-distance trail from Milngavie to Fort William
  • Enjoy camaraderie on the trail as you meet fellow walkers from around the world
  • Walk from the ‘bonnie banks’ of Loch Lomond to the remote Rannoch Moor
  • Stay at Kingshouse Hotel or in iconic Glencoe, surrounded by spectacular scenery
  • Make your proud final steps into Fort William at the foot of Ben Nevis
 
Find out more about the different walking options here

Autumnal magic

Hidden Peaks

I walked from Inverarnnan to Tyndrum on the West Highland Way today, following my Mac Adventure map app.

Clouds were low, so a lot of the higher peaks were hidden from view.

But the Autumn colours more than made up for this: burnt orange grasses, brown bracken, purply brown heather, yellow birch leaves, deep green Caledonian Pine, mosses in bright pink and electric green.

It is a living and ever-changing tapestry for me to walk through as I continue my Lands End to John OGroats D Tour to raise money for Dementia Adventure.

Tune into episode 11 – Doing it my way

A prayer for my Mum

Anniversary

This part of the walk looked a bit scary when I was plotting it on the OS map app back in January at home. The mountains seemed so big!

In reality, the West Highland Way runs through valleys and moors, so there’s no scrambling or high peaks.

Instead, dramatic autumn colours under a grey, lowering sky made for a heart-stopping walk.

The orange grasses seemed to glow as though whole hillsides were on fire. In the background, the mountains are juxtaposed in purples and greys.

 

This was the 1st anniversary of my Mum’s death. She died at midday, and just before the clock struck noon, I came across a little bridge over a mountain, Byrne: the perfect place to throw an oak leaf into the water and say a prayer of thanks for my Mum.

 

After more moody moors, I reached Glencoe Ski Resort and met up with my friend Jodi. Jodi came up from London to walk with me for a few days.

 

She was enthusiastic when I met her, and within a matter of minutes, we had jumped on a ski lift for a birds-eye view of Glencoe.
Thanks to Macs Adventure who have hosted me on this part of my journey.

Marshmallow clouds

Glencoe to Kinlochleven

It was my 6th day on the West Highland Way. Everything is great: I love the moors, the Byrnes, the waterfalls, the copper Autumn tones and the wide open spaces.

I just had one request of the universe: please lift the cloud so I can see the tops of the mountains.

Today was the day it happened.

I set off from Glencoe with Jodi and Frans on a heaven-sent morning of blue skies and pure white marshmallow clouds that hovered high near the mountain tops.

Pretty soon, the spectacular peaks that had been hidden from view over the past few days stood out sharp against the sky, taking our breaths away.

We walked and talked and stopped to listen to the eerie sound of stags rutting- unfortunately, we didn’t catch a glimpse of any antler-clashing battles.

When we got to Kinlochleven, Jodi was still full of energy and eager to squeeze the pips out of her days out of London life. So, after a shower and a cup of tea, we walked to the viewing point at Loch Leven for some perfect reflections of evening light on the lake.

Thank you, Macs Adventure, for another incredible day on the trail.

Tune into episode 12 – The secret sauce

The Great Glen Way

Caledonian Canals 

Today, I hit a new trail, the Great Glen Way, that runs 78 miles from Fort William northeast to Inverness along the fault line home to Loch Lochy, Loch Oich and Loch Ness.

It doesn’t take many days to walk in Scotland before you stumble upon some Victorian engineering feat usually associated with the very busy Thomas Telford.


Telford’s contribution to the Great Glen was the construction of the Caledonian Canal, which links all the lochs of the Great Glen to create one continuous waterway connecting the East to West coasts of Scotland. Clever: no more time-consuming sea journeys.

From the start of the canal, there is a fabulous view back to Ben Nevis before you reach Neptune’s Staircase, a series of 8 lochs that lifts boats 64 feet (20 m) over a quarter of a mile.

The lochs were not of enormous interest to me, but I was tickled by how the Caledonian Canal had all the boating feel of the Thames set in a highland landscape.

Canals make for boring long-distance walking. But the Autumn colours reflected in the dark water were gorgeous. Autumn is well; indeed, she is in all her copper and gold glory.

 

Thanks to Macs Adventure who have hosted me on The Great Glen Way.

Plan your own walking adventure

As Harriet walks her route, we’ll share itineraries from our headline sponsor, Macs Adventure to highlight how you can participate in your own walking adventure.

Macs Adventure offer self-guided, holidays for independent, active people who don’t want to be part of the crowd or be restricted by set dates and schedules. 

The itineraries enable you to go with the people you choose at your own pace without worrying about planning routes or arranging trip logistics. 

Where will you explore first?

macs adventure logo
Macs Adventure Great Glen Way

Follow Harriet's trail - The Great Glen Way

A ‘Macs Adventure’ favourite

  • A classic trail through Highland scenery from Fort William to Inverness
  • Discover the Caledonian Canal with its very impressive series of locks
  • Visit Urquhart Castle and its superb setting on Loch Ness; look-out for Nessie!
  • Impressive views of Ben Nevis en route – the UK’s highest mountain
  • Offering a sense of accomplishment on completion of this long-distance trail
 
Find out more here

Spean Bridge to Laggan

Glencoe to Kinlochleven

Today was all about the trees!

The route hugs the shore of Loch Lochy most of the way, but you only see a little of the Loch as the banks are wooded.

A total wonderland of bright copper beech trees and acid-yellow silver birches was an absolute dream. The colours were out of this world, and I could hardly believe the autumnal colours I was walking through.

The frequent tiny Byrnes that run down the valley’s slopes in their brown peaty tumbles and swirls add to a feeling of gorgeous abundance.

Whenever I did catch a glimpse of the Loch, I was reminded of the WW2 commandos who trained here and practised waterborne assaults in this freezing water, with their complete kit and under fire from live ammo—tough men.

My final path to my B&B led me through the darkest pine forest I have ever encountered.

 

Silver lichen grows everywhere in the cool, clean air of the Great Glen. I have passed trees dripping in it as though they’ve been decorated in silver tinsel, ready for Christmas. Then, it falls onto the forest floor to add to the natural artwork under my boots.

 

Thank you Macs Adventure for another incredible day on the trail.

The last leg!

Culbokie on the Cromarty Firth.

On August 1st, 19 days before my 61st birthday, I started my D Tour, hiking from Lands End in Cornwall to John O’Groats in Scotland. 

One thousand two hundred miles (not the original 900 as I’d thought)

in all to raise money for Dementia Adventure.

 

Now I’m on the final section, the John O’Groats Trail from Inverness to John O’Groats – a little-known trail with some HUGE cliffs and rock features.

 

Today’s section was 15 miles from the beautiful city of Inverness to the little town of Culbokie on the Cromarty Firth.

 

A stunning walk across the Beauly Firth on Kessock Bridge and then through magical woodland and farmland to arrive at Culbokie.

 

A gorgeous Autumn walk on an October day masquerading as Spring.

1054 miles walked.

Tune into episode 13 –  The final countdown

Hot chocolate wishes

Tain to Dornoch

Today is an easy walk of 8.5 miles.

Like days 1 to 3, it involves a mix of woodland, road walking, and a bridge crossing.

We’ve crossed the Beauly Firth, the Cromarty Firth, and today’s road bridge, which crossed the Dornoch Firth.

The Dornoch Firth Bridge, opened by Queen Elizabeth in 1991, theoretically offers good views over the Firth.

However, we set off in Storm Ashley, so it was heads down with the rain and wind blowing at our heels.

Having crossed the bridge, you climb over the barrier and descend to walk along the shore of the Firth. Not exactly golden sand and holidaymakers. More gusty winds, rain and great piles of seaweed dumped on the sand by the receding tide.

At this point, it would be nice to have a hot chocolate. I asked the universe for it, and a large sign rewarded me as we entered Dornoch that announced ‘Cocoa Mountain: The Best Hot Chocolate’.

We went to devour some truly deluxe hot chocolate that did a lot to thaw out our cold hands.

Episode 14 - Trail Angels

Episode 14, entitled Trail Angels, is dedicated to reflection. 

Three months after setting off from Land’s End on an epic journey on foot, Harriet has made it to John O’Groats.

Her D Tour for Dementia Adventure has taken Harriet through England, parts of Wales and now the very tip of the North East of mainland Scotland.

This week she’s reflecting on that journey, the people she met, the friends she’s made and the recurring themes of the past 90 days.

Tune in here

 

Support Harriet - donate here

Where does my money go?

The money raised goes to the Dementia Adventure Support Fund. This fund provides life-enhancing supported breaks for people living with dementia and their carers. These breaks offer respite, reconnection, and hope, allowing families to enjoy nature and outdoor adventures together. They are more than just holidays—they are a chance for families to find peace, joy, and purpose during challenging times.

Donate here

Don't fall!

Helmsdale to Berriedale

It was great to meet and interview Wendy today from Connecting Communities. Connecting Communities works to provide a full circle of support for older people in the rural areas of Sutherland, East Scotland.

I met Wendy in Helmsdale before heading off on my rugged walk.

Back on the trail, it felt like I was back on the Pennine Way: lots of squelchy peat and testing for solid ground with my poles.

At other times, when faced with steps teetering down steep valley sides at impossible angles, I was reminded of the South West Coast Path.

Then, as we approached Berriedale, came the part I wasn’t looking forward to: skinny, muddy, uneven paths clinging to the edge of vertiginous cliffs.

I thank my lucky stars for my trail buddy Fons, who patiently reminded me that I wouldn’t fall… 

With love and gratitude

The ‘Wow’ Walk!

I’m calling this the WOW WALK because I kept saying “Wow” at each new beautiful sight.

I’ve hiked a 1200-mile D Tour from Lands End to John O’Groats to raise money for Dementia Adventure and to honour the late Baroness Susan Thomas of Walliswood – or ‘Mum’ to me.

I’ve walked many of this nation’s most iconic trails and experienced the UK’s most spectacular scenery: Cornish cliffs, West Country’s green rolling hills, Staffordshire canals, the heavenly Peak District, and the majestic West Highland Way.

It’s a tall order to expect the last hike of this 88-day odyssey to provide something that puts the cherry on top. But this walk did.

The universe delivered a perfect Autumn day: bright sunlight with crystal-clear visibility up and down this spectacular coastline.

Intricate rock strata, caves, arches and stacks continued to amaze as we walked north, culminating in the stunning Stacks of Duncansby that glowed pink in the sunlight.

The large boggy section towards the end had us splashing through like kids, knowing that we would both be home in a couple of days, luxuriating in an unlimited supply of clean, dry socks.

As we approached the famous John O’Groats signpost, I looked up to see a beautiful cloud formation, painted blue and pink by the sun and humidity.

For me, that was Mum, Dad and the universe flying a flag for me and saying, “Well done.”

This walk has been one of the best things I have ever done, and I feel fortunate and grateful to have had this opportunity.

I had a dream, I followed it, and magic happened.

I am so grateful to everyone I met on the path and the friends and colleagues who joined me along the way. You brought love and laughter to my heart and renewed energy to my tired legs.

I sincerely thank Dementia Adventure for allowing me to bring a greater sense of purpose to my adventure. I have learned much from interviewing many inspiring people who work to help people living with dementia to live well.

And I’m thrilled that the D Tour podcast reached the top 1% of downloaded podcasts.

What an adventure! Thank you for following the D Tour. You can still donate here and help me to reach my target. 

With love and gratitude.

Harriet x

D Tour logo and UK map

Support Harriet - donate here

Where does my money go?

The money raised goes to the Dementia Adventure Support Fund. This fund provides life-enhancing supported breaks for people living with dementia and their carers. These breaks offer respite, reconnection, and hope, allowing families to enjoy nature and outdoor adventures together. They are more than just holidays—they are a chance for families to find peace, joy, and purpose during challenging times.

Donate here

Thank you MedicAlert - bonus podcast episode

Episode 15 – Who’s Herbert anyway

Thank you to MedicAlert UK for sponsoring this episode and providing over 60 years of support, to ensuring essential health information is always accessible, and bringing peace of mind to families and carers.

In this bonus episode We dive into the complexities of dementia, the importance of wellbeing, and the support systems that make a difference.

Thank you for tuning in.